Good color though...Cowboy Joe and Cowboy Jill around 1955.
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Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts
Damn nice Duds Dude Tenderfoot Fashion Cowboy and Cowgirl Range Fashion!
Good color though...Cowboy Joe and Cowboy Jill around 1955.
Books and eBooks by Jim Linderman for sale HERE
Fashion Makeovers from the Past
In 1909, Conde Nast purchased Vogue. Some believe that was the origin of modern-day fashion photography. Conde Nast, in case you do not know, is the name of an individual, not a corporation, though it could be one now. Conde Montrose Nast was a native New Yorker born in 1873. He started his magazine work at Collier's, where he remade the struggling weekly into a profitable machine. Nast left and subsequently made Vogue the premier fashion magazine in the world, along the way also developing Vanity Fair, House & Garden and Glamour.
Others claim the origin of modern day fashion photography to the pictures Edward Steichen took of of couturier Paul Poiret's gowns in 1911 which were published in Art et Decoration.
These photographs, while as far from the work of Steichen, Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Richard Avedon as they can be, none the less illustrate in 1928 "fashion" a staple of today's magazines for women...the makeover. Maybe not glamour, and maybe not even possible to determine which was "before" and which was "after" they are none the less primitive and early examples of what has become a billion dollar plus-sized industry.
Group of Early original "Makeover" photographic Layouts 1928 Collection Jim Linderman
Vintage V African-American Weaves Wigs and Hair from Howard's of Harlem
There is also a serious amount of weaves in here, including "crispy hair transformations and biscuit side puffs" along with a considerable group of the necessary tools. Beautiful essentials for already beautiful women.
My only other observations are the "V" for victory style, which makes sense after the war, and that from what I can tell "Howard's of 125th Street" was in business well into the long-overdue "Black is Beautiful" era of the late 1960s and beyond.
Rebirth of Charm spring 1946 Catalog Coiffures Created by Howard's New York City 44 page Pamphlet 5" x 7" Collection Jim Linderman
BROWSE and ORDER Books and affordable Ebooks BY JIM LINDERMAN HERE at Blurb
The Tawdry Origins of Glamour Photography Proto Porn the Book
The book PROTO-PORN : THE ART FIGURE STUDY SCAM OF THE 1950s is available as a $5.99 ebook download for iPad or Paperback HERE
Fashion Week ALREADY? What to WEAR? An Easy Solution
Yes, once again the seen make the scene..it's fashion week! My helicopter is waiting... Fashion for me consists pretty much of a few episodes of Heidi's show and a glance through the New York Times Magazine Section a few times a year.
But I like pamphlets...and I made an animated cure for the fashion blues from one in the file. The idea is to create a dozen looks from one suitcase.
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Original "Flip Book" Vacation Dress-O-Graph Published by Shell Oil Company (Yes...you read that right) "The Well-Planned Travel Wardrobe" 1957 Collection Jim Linderman
Flapper with Flag and Little, if Nothing Else
A flapper in the flag struts her patriotic stuff 50 years before Abbie Hoffman was arrested for doing same.
Anonymous snapshot, circa 1920 collection Jim Linderman
Creepy Homemade Bird Feather Victorian Postcards Extinct Practice Extinct Birds and the Most Expensive Feather
Gross handmade postcards from Borat land! Circa 1900 and circa disgusting! This year a single feather from the extinct Huia bird sold for nearly $7000.00 at an auction in Auckland. I don't think you can clone a bird from a feather, but maybe one day. Ritual objects of Native American Tribes containing eagle feathers are illegal to sell, and there are numerous other laws protecting the use of our animal friends in collectibles today, thankfully. I don't know the species here, or if the feathers match the paintings...but they are grisly and gross reminders of when Victorian "fashion" dictated the wholesale harvesting of feathers for silly hats. Not to mention post cards.
Four handmade Bird Feather postcards circa 1900 Collection Jim Linderman
Dull Tool Dim Bulb Books
Mannequin Dummy! Mannekin Manniken Manikin and More
Aieeee! A startling image, but harmless. A photograph taken at a Manhattan Mannequin factory in 1948. Could the Garment district or your local mall survive without them? I guess the only rule is that they be life-sized, or you have to call them dolls.
De Chirico painted them, but he certainly hadn't seen their close relatives the Crash Test Dummy, the CPR Dummy and the sexy blow-up-doll. Remember those fake humans created to allow selfish drivers to use the double occupancy lane? Mannequins.
There is even a psychological condition given to an irrational fear of them! Pediophobia! I'm suffering a bit of it now as I consider Christmas shopping! And of course, there is a term which defines those with an even more creepy ATTRACTION to them, Agalmatophilia. Both are words not recognized by my spell-checking software, but I typed carefully. I'll be sure to use the phrases if I ever put this photograph on Ebay!
The most extensive wiki entry on these dummies is so complete, I suspect it was written by someone who had one of the medical conditions or the other. If you are ever interested in looking up the things, remember there are countless ways to spell it and all are acceptable! Mannequin, mannekin, mannikin and manikin are all approved.
"Manhattan Mannequin Factory" Anonymous Press Photograph 1949 collection Jim Linderman
WINNERS Best Makeovers 1928 Fashion Photography, Vogue, and Plus-Sized Magazines.
In 1909, Conde Nast purchased Vogue. Some believe that was the origin of modern-day fashion photography. Conde Nast, in case you do not know, is the name of an individual, not a corporation, though it could be one now. Conde Montrose Nast was a native New Yorker born in 1873. He started his magazine work at Collier's, where he remade the struggling weekly into a profitable machine. Nast left and subsequently made Vogue the premier fashion magazine in the world, along the way also developing Vanity Fair, House & Garden and Glamour.
Others claim the origin of modern day fashion photography to the pictures Edward Steichen took of of couturier Paul Poiret's gowns in 1911 which were published in Art et Decoration.
These photographs, while as far from the work of Steichen, Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Richard Avedon as they can be, none the less illustrate in 1928 "fashion" a staple of today's magazines for women...the makeover. Maybe not glamour, and maybe not even possible to determine which was "before" and which was "after" they are none the less primitive and early examples of what has become a billion dollar plus-sized industry. Speaking of plus-sized...the September 2007 issue of Vogue, the creation of which is documented in the recent Anna Wintour documentary, was 840 pages and weighed five pounds. I question whether Vogue can sustain their plus-sized magazine through another decade. I hope so. I don't read it, but the wall full of past issues on the shelve behind the bangs bedecked dynamo in "The September Issue" sure look nice.
Best Makeovers 1928 Set of four "Before and After" Portraits Photographs mounted on cardstock. Anonymous Photographer. Dated 1928 Collection Jim Linderman
Collector Goes Overboard. Cigar Band Man
I spent plenty of time at the 26th Street Flea Market and the Pier Shows in NYC. I was a regular. I don't know if folks noticed me and said "there's that guy again" but I certainly said it to enough to myself. My favorites? The one legged man entirely dressed in a pirate uniform asking each dealer for cast iron cookware. The large man asking repeatedly "poker chips? poker chips? poker chips?" while dressed in a dingy t-shirt which read of course "POKER CHIPS" and the most flamboyant fellow in stripped tights...and I mean tight. Here is another fellow who seems to have taken his hobby a bit too far...a man dressed in cigar bands. At least he is appearing at the International Cigar Band Society convention in New York City in 1947. I hope he took a cab right to the show, but if not, I guess no one would have looked twice.
Original Press Photograph, Man with Cigar Band Clothing 1947 Collection Jim Linderman
Paintings on the Knees (Jeez!) Fashion Stockings Lingerie Tattoo or none of the above
A fashion due for a return...The Painted Knee. Shown here is "Gina" a Moulin Rouge Dancer and one of the first to adopt the latest fad. Ornamental colored faces painted on the knees. The paintings are placed so the figures perform amusing dances or contortions when the owner walks or flexes.
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Original Press Photograph Dated 1926 Collection Jim Linderman
Dorothy Chase the Designer, Radio Shill and her Figure Perfection 1930
In the early 1930's Dorothy Chase was stylist for a corset company, a designer, a radio personality and creator of a striking figure analysis chart shown in part here. Her chart "illustrate(s) the obstacles to figure perfection most frequently encountered by the average woman." Personally, I think they are all perfect already.
Shown:
Faulty Posture
Full Bust
Pendulous Abdomen
Prominent Lower Back
Broad Hips
Fallen Bust
Not shown:
Average Figure
Slender Hips
Round Abdomen
High Busted
Low Busted
Prominent Hip Bones
Fleshy Shoulder Blades
High Prominent Abdomen
Fleshy Through Waistline
Heavy Thigh Flesh
"Something Different, Especially for You" brochure, c. 1930 Collection Jim Linderman
Crazy Car Counterculture, The Concept of Customization and the Weirdo Shirt
In the late 50's, ads like this began appearing in Custom Cars magazine, this one from the May 1959 issue. "The Baron" is Baron Crozier, a pin-striping artist who painted drag strip cars. Roth is of course the larger than life Big Daddy Roth, creator of anti-Mickey Mouse Rat Fink (you'll remember him if you ever walked into a model shop in the 1960's) and other disgusting designs hated by mothers. Which was the whole point. Roth is still inspiring contemporary artists, though he blew his engine for good in 2001. These Weirdo-Shirts, which you can see were unique, one-of-a-kind paintings created on demand... not only launched Big Daddy's career but created something you pass a hundred times a day without thinking about it. Give-up? The printed T-shirt. Seriously. You can trace every damn t-shirt you see today right back to the Roth studios and this tiny little advert.
Although Big Daddy made millions on his designs, he always considered himself a hot-rod and bike designer more than cartoonist. His mission was creating the unique design in a world which favored conformity. The whole idea of customization ran against the cookie-cutter, rubber-stamp world he found himself in. After founding Chopper magazine in 1967, he had some serious problems with the Hell's Angels and regrets about the bad influence his work had on kids. He closed the studio and converted to Mormonism, but never gave up on his experimental road race designs.
There is a Big Daddy revival every few years. It is curious the last major one emerged out of the Seattle grunge world, as Big Daddy felt rock and roll killed the hotrod business. “Guys were spending more money on music—records and guitars and sound equipment—than they were spending on cars.” Roth wrote an autobiography, but it seems to be out of print...used copies are priced at far more than Ed sold his shirts for. Wait for the next revival.
Ad from Custom Cars Magazine May 1959 Collection Jim Linderman
GALS GAMS GARTERS the BOOK
GALS GAMS GARTERS which is a digital record of an enormous scrapbook found in a dumpster by a Virginia student in the late 1960's. Our anonymous artist was a serious aficionado of the leg, ankle and above, but there is no nudity, no sex and nary a nipple. However, the man with the scissors and tape, like the magazine editors who provided him with product, managed to skirt good taste with plenty of inspired photos. His motivation? Who knows? For that matter, who is to judge? Feel free to forward to your fashionista friends.
We start here with one "Dacy Reid" who is in fact the recently departed Bettie Page. If you are a fan of vintage erotica, fashion, vintage clothing and retro culture...or (like the web itself) are saturated and sated with x-rated exploitation, GALS GAMS GARTERS is the place for you.
Newprint photo detail c. 1955 Collection Jim Linderman
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